David Chang, the all new chef at the all new Momofuku Ko restaurant at 163 1st Ave, between 10th & 11th, has become something of a celebrity on the New York scene in the space of a few days since the diner opened its doors on March 12th.

More than the recipe, Momofuku Ko has become a big hit because it’s in sync with the speed of NYC. The Big Apple has a constant and unquenchable thirst for change and something new everyday and hour and minute. What’s new today is yesterday’s news tomorrow. 

Most New York hotels, restaurants and chefs are by nature conservative and try to offer the same experience for years and decades. In fact, they have a not insignificant chip on their shoulders and take pride in their heritage. They also try to offer everything they can to customers and go out of their way to keep them happy.

Going against the grain, Momofuku Ko has a flexible menu which changes everyday and a chef in David Chang who makes recommendations from the open kitchen to guests seated across the counter and dispenses with the formalities by walking over to serve guests in person. There is also the illusion of being heavily in demand, due to the seating being limited to an absolute minimum of 12 slightly spaced seats, and also because the restaurant allows entry only by reservation, and allows no takeaways or catering requests. To top that off, the restaurant opens at 6.30 p.m. in the evening and closes at midnight. It’s quite fair to say that New York needs more of Momofuku Ko than the restaurant needs more clients.

Momofuku Ko has thus tapped into New York’s thirst for something new everyday in a place you know. You can go there today, enjoy the food, and go there tomorrow, and enjoy something totally new, and keep going back again and again - if you get a reservation (which is easier said than done). This satisfies the change bug while offering the comforting familiarity of the ambience and the friendliness of the staff.

The menu consists of eight or nine tasting courses with set dining times for $85, and features American cuisine creatively blended with some ethnic touches.

Info: 163 1st Ave, between 10th & 11th, New York, Ny 10003. Corkage fee - $15. Reservations - Online, accepted for a maximum of 4 people, one week in advance.