There are times when New York begins to bite. Everything seems to be going horribly wrong, and you feel so very alone, walking against the tide of humanity flowing out of Grand Central or jostling with the well-heeled shoppers on Fifth Ave. Everybody seems to be so busy and having such a good time in the Big Apple - Except for poor you with nothing to do and no money to do it even if you wanted to. At times like these, when you’re in the dumps, I usually retreat from the merciless inhumanity of Downtown Manhattan and seek comfort in Harlem with some real soul food and quiet jazz.

Life here is still simple, and you’re not expected to have a gazillion tucked away in stock options. Whatever you may or may not be, you’re still welcome at M & G’s at the corner of 125th & Morningside near St. Nicholas Ave, for a heaping plate of fried chicken and then hang around for a couple of hours nursing a cup of iced tea and nibbling on a short rib sandwich. You can perch on your stool and yak with the regulars about what’s happening in Harlem. They’ll happily talk to strangers, and all you have to do is nod along and listen, with the jukebox belting out an excellent selection of jazz, soul and R&B tunes. There’s something comforting about the place, which makes you forget all about your pathetic existence, and just flow with it. 

And it helps that the food is great and prices are still cheap, inspite of all the fame the M & G has recieved recently. I’d much rather prefer to cure my blues with some 20 odd dollars at M & G’s, than visit a therapy hack who charges by the hour…You can, of course, visit the M & G Diner, if just like soul food or you’re just looking to get acquainted with New York and Harlem. Info: 383 W. 125th St., New York, NY 10027; (212) 864-7326  

Another place I used to hang out at in Harlem until recently is Amy Ruth’s, located at 113 W 116th St., New York, NY 10026. Right now, it’s a bit over-rated and the waiting lines for a table are getting longer than I’m used to, which is why I shifted base to M & G’s, but it’s still pretty good, if you’re looking for soul food in NYC. The meals are named after famous folks like the Rev. Al Sharpton, and they serve up a smashing dessert - The Inez Bass, a red velvet cake. It feels good to be able to stick a fork into the good Rev. Sharpton, if you know what I mean… 

Other notable soul food joints in Harlem include Miss Maude’s on 547 Lenox Ave, Charles’ Southern Style Kitchen on 2841 Frederick Douglass Blvd and the nearby Londel’s Supper Club on Striver’s Row, which also features live jazz performances during the weekend. Londel’s chicken and waffles aren’t too bad either, and their Sunday brunch spread is a pretty good example of what Harlem soul food is all about.